Thursday, June 24, 2010

A New Plan?

I've been reviewing my plans on what to do next. I originally wanted to do a LP copy with parts from Dragon Mountain and then probably do a V as a kind of art piece, but the idea of doing an LP with a bolt on neck has always bugged me a little. I noticed that Dragon Mountain had stopped listing the V's on ebay so i thought I might see what else was out there and I found this at byoguitar.com. I've always liked Explorers better than V's, so I was kind of excited by it. It's also a set neck, and they have an LP kit too that's set neck. So I think the new plan is to order an Explorer kit and try it, and if I can get it put together right and finished properly then that's the way I'll go. If not I'll just buy the prefinished bolt-on parts and do what works.

The finish on the explorer will be black, I found this ebonizing process I would like to try here. I am not at all interested in trying to spray paints and laquers, so all my finishes are going to be things that can be brushed or rubbed on. The humbuckers are going to need chrome covers.

For the LP if I'm finishing myself I'll try and get as close to this, that's what I was trying to get to when I chose the original LP design in burgundy from Dragon Mountain.



A summary of my adventures in finding out about guitar finishing to follow.

Success!

I re-drilled the neck and bolted it on and it worked, everything lined up nice. Here were the Steps:

1) Clamped the neck to the body and ran both e-strings and got them taught.

2) Maneuvered the neck in the clamp until the strings were even over the pickup poles and in from the edges of the of the fretboard.

3) Screwed the supplied screws through the body holes into the neck to mark positions.

4) Using a drill press drilled new holes in 2 passes, with a 1/16" bit and then 5/32". I was pretty concerned about the one edge of neck because the holes were very close, but it worked ok

5) Bolt the neck on using the coarse screws, just needed a T-driver, not a screw gun to get them in

6) Put the e-strings back on and everything lined up again perfect!

I even plugged it into an amp and got sound and not a ridiculous amount of hum, so that seems to be good as well.

Impressions and next steps:

There is too much gap around the neck in the pocket. I'll be adding some veneer in the pocket to tighten that up hopefully, though it might need more than 1 layer and that doesn't seem like fun.

Now that the neck is in and I can hold it in the body it definitely feels like the "too thick" strat necks that I never loved, but the fretboard is nice and flat unlike most on strats I have played, and that's the more important part to me. Up at the nut it also doesn't feel overly tight between the strings.

The grooves are cut very low on a cursory check. The action is low already. This of course will all change when I actually get into the setup, but i don't think i'm going to have a lot of meat to file down the nut if necessary.

No pictures of the procedure as I left the camera at work, but I don't think drill presses are really that exciting.


Thursday, June 17, 2010

Pink Strat Update

The body is done, that was a snap. I shielded everything again. The biggest issue was trying to figure out why the middle pickup would short out when i screwed down the pickguard but not at any other time? Turns out that the connector on the 5-way switch was shorting out on on the shielding, but only when the pickguard was screwed down! Electrical tape solved that problem.

When I went to bolt on the neck to the body I discovered that the holes didn't line up, which apparently is common, so i have doweled the holes and am just waiting a couple of days for the glue to dry before i drill new holes. I also had to shave the pickguard down a little.





Wednesday, June 16, 2010

The Epic Re-Wiring of a Epiphone Les Paul Special II


All right epic is probably a bit much, how about we just settle for a titanic battle between myself and a medusa-like collection of wires in a constricted battlefield. Well in the end I was victorious, and I can bring you the story with some pictures!

First I pulled all the old stuff out of the guitar:



Then I shielded it with conductive copper tape:






I think the shielding was actually the funnest part of this whole project. The stuff is cheap ($10 for 10ft of 3" wide) and flexible and super thin. You can pile it 4 or 5 layers deep in places to get it to do what you want and it doesn't take any extra room.

This first part was all done in about 5 hours of one night, maybe even not that long.

After that the wiring started. Remember I was taking this from a simple 1 tone 1 volume toggle factory setup to a 2 push/pull pot with full separated ground setup done by a rookie. If I have one word of advice on this, don't make your first project one where you are trying to stuff 3x the intended number of wire into a very tight space.

Here's what it looks like before I started:


Here's what it looked like when i was done:

And actually I added at least one wire after this picture was taken. i didn't quite realize how many more wires you would end up using when you don't just ground everything to the pots.

I started by pre-wiring as much of it as possible outside of the cavity, that's everything but connecting the pickups in this case. I got it all in and plugged it in and HUM!!! Except when I pulled out the switch of the volume pot, then i got some fairly clean signal. From their it was a looonnggg process of basically re-doing everything until i found the problems, which turned out to be every connection. Some of them 3x.

The list of things I fixed and learned between a lot of hum and working guitar were:

1. Everything gets grounded
2. Don't ground the pickups to the body if you have only one ground wire, ground it to the output, even if nobody seems to tell you this anywhere
3. Ground the output to the body with a wire, don't rely on the copper shielding, even if that works for the pot bodies.
4. Butt connectors and ring terminals are your friends
5. Soldering to an output jack sucks
6. Re-use the pickup bezels that came with the guitar, even if the new ones look like an exact match, they probably don't
7. Meter the pickups if they are 4 or 5 wire humbuckers so you know exactly what you are dealing with. I found out that the bridge pickup ground was actually coming off the north coil instead of the south. It's easy to do and you'll know exactly which wire is which.

The last step to making work was actually point 3 above. I actually got it to the point where it was pretty much working properly except the tone knob, in that when you turned it down it increased it turned up the hum!

The only complaint I have now is that when i hook it up to my toneport and use a lot of distortion splitting the bridge pickup results in an unusable amount of hum. I don't think there is anything I can do about this though, as it's not a problem with lower setting of distortion or through an amp.

The pickups themselves don't really sound that much different from what was in there originally, though the sound does seem "crisper". It definitely seems louder now though. The biggest change is the tone knob now actually does something, 0-10 there is a noticeable effect. This is the first guitar I have ever owned where I can say that. I think this is a function of using A500K pots and not the B500K that came with the guitar, not the pickups. Maybe the capacitor. I'll have to see when I work on the Peavey if I notice something similar.

A post comparing the sound before and after will follow.

In the end I'm very happy with the result, and I learned a lot, and it looks and sounds exactly like I wanted it too.